I had Flying Blue points expiring this year. It took a lot of flexibility with dates and destinations and multiple phone calls to Air France, but the two seats BOS-CDG-PRG with a 4-day Paris stopover for 37k points felt like a steal.
Paris 🇫🇷
First morning, hit up the famous Maison d'Isabelle. Super crunchy shell, rich buttery insides. Near the hotel in the 9th arrondissement, Mamiche's chou vanille and chouquettes were the other obsession. The chantilly (maybe mascarpone folded in) was the freshest, milkiest cream I've ever tasted. Went back on the way to the airport.
I found Fruttini on Instagram, scoffed at the prices, then the sorbet destroyed that skepticism. Fresh, fruity, perfect. With so much to do and eat, no choice but to take coffees and baguettes to go for the streets.
Other 9+ Beli hits:
- Clamato — uni, clams, kiwi tiradito, cuttlefish tagliatelle
- Godaille — mussels
- La Bourse et La Vie — poireaux, steak au poivre
- Mandoobar — mackerel tartare
- Datil — seasonal vegetables and broths
Prague 🇨🇿
I hadn't been to Prague since I was 8 (2007) so it was essentially a new city for me. I was able to burn Hilton points I got from attending timeshare packages with the 5th night free benefit 🎉.
Someone in my apartment building had left a copy of Kafka's Metamorphosis in the communal spaces; I finished it before the trip. Seeing Černý's Kafka head mid-metamorphosis felt oddly well-timed. Trade Fair Palace (National Gallery) had Černý, Kupka, and Klimt in an old industrial building. I'd recommend visiting.
Prague food somehow beat Paris. Right after check-in we hit Gangnam for late-night Korean. The jokbal was the best I've had. At a local spot with no English, a dill cream soup so hearty and dill-forward, I'll never forget it. Štangl and Papilio brought strong Czech wine lists and clean seasonal cooking.
Last day, we saw the Prague Marathon as en route to the airport. The marathon ran past the landmarks and finished right by our hotel. Would've been cool to run it. Also hoped I'd run into Adam Ondra at the two climbing gyms, but oh well.
Vienna 🇦🇹
Vienna was technically a 24-hour layover, so we spent almost every hour possible walking and exploring the city. The Leopold Museum displayed extensive works by Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele, and showcased Austrian art history including the Viennese Secession.
Went for dinner at a neighborhood schnitzel place, and every menu item hit - white asparagus, duck bourguignon, even the bread and butter. I assumed schnitzel must be vastly inferior to katsu, but that was shattered.
Flight home
The flight home on Austrian business was booked using 70k Air Canada points (PRG-VIE-BOS). Lie-flat seats make the end the trip a real highlight. Austrian has a chef onboard (presumably also a flight attendant, but he really only worked during meal service).
The real surprise was the extensive coffee menu, mirroring some top Vienna coffee houses. After debating between an Einspänner, Kaffee Mozart (with Mozart liqueur), and a Wiener Eiskaffee, I went for the Eiskaffee for dessert. Best drink I've had on a plane.
